Step three: Clean & Weld
We started out by thinking we'd strip the paint. Before we could get started, Vance Elfering of RIP Racing (Reproductions In Plastic) stepped up and volunteered for the job. We've had Vance help with this before and he does such a good job in such a short time that it was well worth it to let him have at it.

After stripping the chassis, vance used a small amount of light sand paper to remove the really stuck paint, then 00 grade steel wool, followed by a quick run with 0000 grade steel wool. That gets the tunnel near polished, but doesn't make it look over done. We'll do a little more clean up on the tunnel, but it's looking pretty good for now.

Next we welded up all the cracks. This old Indy had plenty of them - 10 in all. We also had to do a little pounding on the running boards near the front, as they were pretty badly dented. We also carefully fitted the rear mounts for the trailing arm and added a curved brace that we will rivet to the tunnel. There is not much supporting the trailing arm after you remove the original foot rests, so you will need to do this. Removing the foot restis legal in both the 340 & 500 classes.

We also cut the handlebar off and welded a mount for the Aluminum Handlebar clamp. Once these pieces were done, all of them, plus the pipe went off to the powder coater to get blasted, painted and powder coated. You could just as easily save the money and blast & paint these parts yourself. We'll have pictures when the parts come back from powder coat. I opted for the Wahl Oval bars with the straight left side.

Step four: Build That Front End
Next came the beginning of the work on the front end. We started with the radius rods and tie rods, using 6160 aluminum. A standard 1980 Indy is only 36" wide. The 1992's are 38" wide, and the rules state you can only be 38", carbide to carbide. In Formula 500 only, your 38" can have a 1" offset. I first tried just replacing the rods with newer ones from another Indy - that will not work. You have to make them if your sled is as old as mine. Please note I don't know if these measurements are correct for the newer model chassis. NOTE: As of today (8/11/05), the rules for the Formula 500 class have changed and the front end can be as wide as 45"!

Radius and Tie Rod Measurements 1980 Indy: Formula 340 45" stance, 1" offset Recoil side Radius Rods: 16.5" Clutch side Radius Rods: 15.5" Recoil side Tie Rod: 18" Clutch Side Tie Rod 17" Torsion Bar 36" long, 7/8" O.D.
	The start of the new front end. Note the 'holy' chaincase - not legal in Formula 500, but it is allowed in Formula 340.

Looking at my 20 year old tie rod ends, I decided to replace those as well. I don't think this was optional - they were rusted, sloppy and beat. I ordered 4 of the 03-342 ends, 1 of the 03-336 ends, 1 of the 03-338 ends, 2 of the 03-348 ends and 2 of the 03-316's.

I also ordered 4 new bearings, 2 for the chaincase, 2 for the shafts. No point in messing with 20+ year old bearings.

The old shocks didn't look real good, so I called up the local Polaris dealer: New shocks for a 92 Indy are just $24.95 (part number 7041144), so I got those and the upper and lower retaining rings. Note that replacing the stock shocks with newer "rebuildable" shocks is not legal in either class.

Up next: A motor and some powder coated parts!